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Top 10 Reasons to Start Posting on PuristSPro


Top 10 Reasons to Start Posting on PuristSPro If you have found us and are reading this then more likely than not, youve landed yourself into a very special group of individuals. Welcome! Although the rest of the world may not understand why you frequent the watch stores at the mall, take more pictures of your watch than you do of your family, will discreetly try to see the timepiece the guy next to you is wearing and can spot an Offshore in a 2 second clip on the TV screen we can confidently say that WE UNDERSTAND. We want you to make yourself comfortable, read all you want (the hundreds of...

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Great tips & suggestions for anyone interested in entering the world of watches


Yesterday a friend that is not in watches (he does not wear one), asked this question (followed by many others) that made me think a lot. How we can advise and introduce a newbie on this fantastic hobby? How can a person that is entering on this mysterious and fantastic world avoid most or some of the mistakes that we made when we started? I’m sure that each one here already faced a question similar to this on and let’s see what “formula” we can propose to a novice. I will give mine but I’m expecting that ... ...

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Is Gold PVD a Scam?


Modern gold PVD vs. traditional gold-plating by Marcus Hanke Remember the times when “gold plated” or “gold filled” watches were the “poor man’s gold watch”? It was rather common to wear timepieces that were encased in steel (well, sometimes even brass) and covered with thin layer of gold. However, there were different grades of this kind of “cheat”: from thinnest possible coats, that were ribbed off already by wiping the watch with a cloth, to rather thick gold layers that did not show signs of becoming ... ...

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What Have You Done to Raise Your Partner's Appreciation of Watches?


What Have You Done to Raise Your Partner’s Appreciation of Watches? By Ping Tsai Watch collecting can be a lonely interest at times. Chances are if you get excited about a triple bridge tourbillon, you’re among the minority. Chances are if you express that excitement to your co-worker, next door neighbor or even spouse, you’ll get some seemingly engaged interest that is really a masked disguise for sympathy. The simple truth is that the popularity and coolness of watch collecting is questionable, at least ... ...

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Why Do Men Wear Watches with Diamonds?


Why Do Men Wear Watches with Diamonds? Last week in a staff meeting I noticed that my boss was sporting a Cartier Roadster with a diamond bezel. Immediately, I thought to myself, “Oh, so he’s one of those guys”, at the time not even knowing what exactly I had meant by that. I did know however, that I don’t see men wearing watches with diamonds too often so when I do, it does tend to strike an impression. Perhaps making a statement is entirely the intention to begin with. A Diamond Bulgari Octo for Men As ... ...

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Talking with Yohan Blake on Richard, Racing, and the Resolve of ‘The Beast’!


[La Bête et la Belle: the “Beast” takes on Richard with the RM059] At this year’s SIHH Richard debuted the RM059 Yohan Blake. Much speculation preceded this year’s SIHH with what the new Yohan Blake watch would look like. Not the one that was worn at the Olympic Games in the summer (although I will come back to that); no, the one that would be a limited edition and be individual to Yohan Blake, his tastes, his style, his watch. The watch that Blake wore at the Games, and that caused furor, was basically an ... ...

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Piaget Technique & Aesthetic: Part 1 – Design


Piaget Technique & Aesthetic: Part 1 – Design Piaget recently released the first of their' know-how' watchmaking videos that premiered on PuristSPro. We were very honoured that PuristS could be the first in the world to see it....even before the Piaget company website. Design Definition Design is a nebulous term in itself. A discussion about design cannot be in isolation as it requires a context or setting. Unlike a lump of abstract 'art', design and particularly - industrial design - implies a relationship ... ...

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Hublot Antikythera Watch


(Note: This is the translation of an article I wrote for the Japanese watch magazine - "World Wrist Watch", with its written permission. The article was written before Basel and therefore I made some modification.) In October 2011 , Hublot announced at Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris a movement, "Antikythera", created by the completely unique approach. "Antikythera" movement - to be precise, it is a movement tribute to the ancient "machine" from the ancient Greek (between BC 1st and ...

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What determines the longevity of a watch within a collection?


What determines the longevity of a watch within a collection? By Ping Tsai © January 2012 There is a question that I have been contemplating for a long time – What distinguishes a watch that is kept from one that is sold? To put it another way, what exactly determines the longevity of a watch within an individual's collection? I have seen watches of which some were kept for a lifetime and others sold within a year, both purchased with equal enthusiasm and fondness. Why does one particular ...

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Grand Seiko VFA Story


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The DeWitt Manufacture in Perspective


The DeWitt Manufacture in Perspective By Art "Dr No" Dakessian © September 2011 Our moderator Dr. Magnus Bosse wrote about The Manufacture DeWitt in "A Pandorean box of creativity - a visit to the manufacture DeWitt" , which was posted on May 24th, 2011 (link to article: home.watchprosite.com ). There is little of substance one can add to Magnus's magisterial article, which describes the Manufacture in requisite detail. There is, though, a lingering sense of mystery... Magnus has ably explained ...

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The Sultans of Spin: Greubel Forsey’s Invention Piece 2 with quadruple tourbillon


Take it from me: this is the watch of the year! I saw it first at SIHH in January; and then again, just the other week when I was introduced to the rose gold/charcoal ruthenium version. In my (perhaps) jaded and tired view of most of the watch industry, the watches that really ‘rock the boat’, are far and few between. All too often there is the hyperbol and the sound bites that this is now the "latest and the greatest" and "how could we have had any watch other than this before now!" ...

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Making History: Last 22 Watches of the Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Contemporaine


[The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Contemporaine: The beginning and the end of the model) Even before Greubel Forsey as a watch firm existed in Robert and Stephen's minds, they had an idea for a Double Tourbillon where the angle of rotation (for the first cage) was pitched at 30 degrees. The two horological innovators had considered the possibility of developing it with a watch company but realized that this idea, and the scope for developing new tourbillon systems, was sufficiently ...

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The art of enamelling at Cartier


Earlier in my epic 13-part post on the Cartier manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds I took a look at the enamelling department of the manufacture ( click here to see the post). This post will provide a more detailed look - with 42 never seen before photos - at the enamel atelier. Atelier emaillage - "enamel workshop" The enamel workshop was set up three years ago. Not many watch companies have in-house enamel artists, it is expensive and there are absolutely no economies of scale from vertical integration. But bringing it in-house does offer a greater variety of choice and flexibility in the resul...

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A visit to Manufacture Roger Dubuis in Geneva.


A visit to Manufacture Roger Dubuis By Su Jia Xian (SJX) The trajectory Roger Dubuis has taken in its 15 years is remarkable. Founded in 1995 by Carlos Dias, Roger Dubuis started out as a maker of makers in the classic Geneva style – with a twist. Movements were finished to a high degree, consecrated with the Geneva Seal and blessed with an Observatory certificate. Even when the brand used new old stock movements, they were modified for that distinctively elaborate Geneva look with separate cocks for the escape, third and fourth wheel. In fact, the firm was founded as SOGEM, or Socié...

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A visit to the Lange manufactory in Glashütte.


A visit to the Lange manufactory in Glashütte An tour of the Lange Uhren factory in Glashütte covering the manufacturing and finishing of parts, assembly and testing, including in-house hairspring production By Su Jia Xian (SJX) Lange watches are today made at the Lange I and Lange II buildings on Altenberger Straße. Originally the premises of clockmaker Strasser & Rohde, Lange set up here after the company was re-established in 1990 because the original Lange building at Ferdinand-Adolph-Lange-Platz 1 was owned by the town of Glashütte and unavailable. Fortunately in the y...

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A chat with Denis Giguet of MCT.


Denis Giguet founded Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT) after leaving Harry Winston Rare Timepieces (HWRT), where he was Production Director. There are hints of the Opus watches in MCT; Giguet only focuses on novel displays of time and other functions. In the distant future there may be an MCT perpetual calendar with an innovative display according to Giguet. Prior to HWRT, Giguet was at Rolex for six years where he was head of special projects. His tenure there was a “very interesting ...

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Van Der Bauwede, originator of the lingerie inspired watch


Maxence Van Der Bauwede is the scion of a family of jewellers originally hailing from Bruges in Belgium. The family has been in jewellery and watchmaking since 1873, but admirably his namesake brand Van Der Bauwede (VDB) does not devote too much energy into expounding on its history. VDB makes a surprisingly large range of watches, including some truly offbeat pieces that are memorable and original. And despite the designs, there is little pretense in most of the timepieces. Maxence Van Der Bauwede ...

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Some thoughts on the Horological Machine No. 4 from MB&F.


The Horological Machine No. 4 is the most radical creation from Maximilian Busser, which is saying a lot given his track record. And based on anecdotal evidence gathering from collectors and potential buyers, the MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt has certainly elicited the strongest reactions. The HM4 reminds me of the pod racer from Star Wars, while the movement is reminiscent of the USS Enterprise. But unlike the previous Machines, the HM4 is not in the traditional form of a watch – a flat object sitting ...

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A Pictorial History of Watches by Bulgari


Bulgari watches have experienced a long and dynamic history of iconic creations, creative interpretations and constant strives toward technological improvement. The instantly recognizable BVLGARI-BVLGARI watch is a mainstay, anchoring the collection from a historical and design perspective. It also serves to billboard one of Bulgari's most ubiquitous and prominent design elements, its own company logo. Bulgari design has also seen inspiration from classical ancient Greek and Roman motifs such as ...

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A visit to the iconic Cartier store on Rue de la Paix in Paris


Louis Cartier established the now famous Cartier boutique at 13 Rue de la Paix in 1899. Running between the Place Vendôme and Opéra Garnier, Rue de la Paix is the most expensive property on the French version of Monopoly. Cartier at 13 Rue de la Paix has seen countless notable personalities stroll through its elaborate entrance over the years, including various members of royalty, celebrities and even internet forum moderators. click here to see the report. - SJX...

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TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 - one of the most significant products of 2010.....


is the TAG Heuer Carrera 1887. I mention this in the upcoming Business Times watch supplement to be published on 27 August in Singapore. When the 1887 calibre went online in December 2009, it caused an uproar. Beginning on certain French watch forums and spreading quickly, the news got out that the new Calibre 1887 from TAG Heuer was not what it was cracked up to be. Nowhere in the press release did it state that the movement was based on a Seiko movement, the 6S37. Even though TAG Heuer would manufacture ...

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A visit to Manufacture Cartier in La Chaux-de-Fonds.


Cartier has five facilities in Switzerland, but the primary manufacture is in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It provides an overview of Cartier manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds and the processes in creating a watch; each department will be explored in more detail in later posts. This report also provides exclusive peeks into certain areas of the manufacture never seen before anywhere else. click here to see the 13-part report. - SJX...

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More than meets the eye: an in-depth look at the Cartier Santos Triple 100.


The Cartier Santos Triple 100 was first launched in 2008 in a limited edition of 20 pieces, cased in palladium. It featured three dials – in white, diamond pave and a hand-engraved tiger – made possible by a patented louvre system operated by the crown. Three-faced louvres made of solid white gold with a triangular profile are rotated to show each of the dials. The simplicity of the concept belies its complexity.... click here to continue reading. - SJX...

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Jacquemarts: Little Big Men Striking


Marcus Hanke explores the history behind the tiny automatons on the dials of Ulysse Nardin's repeaters and hour strikers. Jacquemarts: Little Big Men Striking My research for this article started nearly nine years ago. Already the first Ulysse Nardin catalogue I held in my hands some twelve years ago, confronted me with the term "jacquemart". However, the reference works at my disposition were no help, even my Enyclopedia Britannica did not mention the term. Internet search engines like Webcrawler and Yahoo were barely known and not efficient, Google and the Wikipedia did not even exist. There...

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